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04 July 2008

Barbecue…Valley style

Some of the RGV's top barbeque joints.

The charo beans come first, served with Spanish rice. Finish that, and the brisket arrives wrapped in a flour tortilla.
That’s barbecue in the Rio Grande Valley.
Mexican and American culture slams together here in the deepest of deep South Texas. And so do the two countries style of grilling and slow roasting. That leaves the Valley with some of the most unique barbecue fixings in the world. And for Fourth of July –a holiday synonymous with barbecue—we’ve visited some of the area’s signature barbecue joints.


Lone Star BBQ
3619 N. 10th St.
McAllen
(956) 664-9988

The sauce stretches and drips onto the meat.
It’s a testament to how sweet Lone Star’s barbecue tastes. In the world of barbecue, chefs have a major choice – sour or sweet. Here at Lone Star, they’ve committed firmly to the sweeter side.
If you like a little sweetness in life, here’s your barbecue joint. The restaurant also clinches the Valley’s best barbecue sausage distinction. The Texas Monthly magazine pointed that out earlier this year, naming Lone Star an honorable mention on the list of the state’s top 50 barbecue joints.
For the most part, the place keeps it simple.
The menu has all the standard barbecue meats and fixings – you know, beef and pork, potato salad and creamy corn.
They also serve up charo beans, in true Valley fashion. It’s delicious too, with a powerful amount of cilantro but not too much. Try it out.
And the whole restaurant sports some major Texas pride. The tables themselves bear the Texas flag. It’s real décor you don’t mess with.


Willie B’s BBQ
114 E. Loeb St.
Edinburg
(956) 318-1373

The writing covers the walls at Willie B’s BBQ.
All over, people have scribbled notes. The marker-drawn messages express love for girlfriends, colleges and sports teams. Many have scrawled their names or their hometowns or the day they visited.
It’s all made official, right there on the wall.
But what goes unsaid is far more important.
Willie B’s makes some of the best barbecue in Texas. Actually, that is official. The Texas Monthly magazine bestowed that distinction upon the joint. This Edinburg brisket burner earned an honorable mention on the zine’s recent list of Top 50 Lonestar State barbecue joints. It’s one of only two Upper Valley restaurants to do so, joining Lone Star BBQ over in McAllen.
That leaves two questions. What do you order? And what do you write on the wall?
You can’t go wrong with any of the traditional barbecue offerings or sides. It’s all here and it’s all well done.
And if you’re with a group, grab the botana for four. It costs $42.99, and it gives you brisket, ribs, beef ribs, chicken, fajitas, sausage, and pork. All that to go along with sides, sides and more sides.
Also, try the fajita taco. They put barbecue style meet on a tortilla and slop down the sauce. Really good.
So next question: What do you write on the wall?
How about, “Hey Willie B’s! Start selling brews and hosting concerts.”
Well, that’s what we’d write anyway.

Johnny’s BBQ
703 W. Ferguson St.
Pharr
(956) 787-9263

Johnny’s offers barbecue and something far more special – time travel.
Stepping into Johnny’s is like walking back four decades. The place has stood in its spot for 40 years, and it doesn’t feel like much has changed. Not necessarily a bad thing.
The retro style booths sport slashes. The old-looking chairs have stains. The ceiling tiles have suffered water damage.
It’s an awesome venue for barbecue, and one truly unique in the Valley. Even the clientele feels dated. During a recent trip, we came across three guys rocking uber greaser style. They’d hack it fine with Matt Dillon and Pony Boy in the Outsiders. Seriously, rolled up jean cuffs, old school Converse Chuck Taylor’s and slicked back hair. For real.
Then there’s the food. Not the best barbecue available in the Valley. The sauce is tangy and thin. Not in a good way, and the meat served was fatty. But the sausage was delicious as was the toast. Still, don’t expect the best barbecue.
And then there’s the beer factor. Johnny’s restaurant sits on the side of a lounge. A lounge that rocks with excellent blues and beer bargains each Wednesday night. Isn’t that what it’s all about?

Ramos BBQ
10801 N. 10th St.
Edinburg
(956) 386-1818

Make your trip to Ramos at night.
Because first, you eat your meal on a screened in porch with no air conditioning. Second, they offer a big, chopped brisket sandwich for $.99 after 5 p.m. So go late.
Is the no air conditioning a problem? Not if you come prepared and hit their free refills on sweat tea hard. Large fans blow on the eating area, but any Valley resident will tell you that’s no match for the South Texas heat.
Still, it’s more than worth the trip.
The place sits on way North 10th Street near where McAllen runs into Edinburg.
It’s a lot of food for a good price too, especially if you’re feeding a big group. Get serious about eating Valley barbecue and get the Chuck Wagon specials. You can feed anywhere from two to eight people with these mass amounts of food. The specials include chicken, sausage, brisket, beef, pork ribs and fajitas. That’s all paired with pickles, onions, jalapeños, potato salad and bread or tortillas.
Surprise, surprise, with a deal like that they also do catering.
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Zack Quaintance covers features and entertainment for The Monitor. You can reach him at (956) 683-4447.


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